Cards

So the first thing I want to do is add a few thoughts to last night. First of all, despite my comments about the Catholic church I have enjoyed experiencing it to a greater degree than ever before. Also, I did not mean to imply there is anything wrong with old women, only that to an outsider a church body comprised of no one else looks like a place to avoid.
Second, I meant to add a lesson I´ve learned over the past couple of days which is this: one of the best ways to meet people on the Camino is to carry a package of cookies and offer to share with the other pilgrims waiting for the albergue to open. No other food is quite as easy or sanitary to share, and even if the person declines he or she will do it with a smile and be more likely to talk to you in the future. Now I always carry cookies with me for just such a purpose (and because they are a tasty source of carbohydrates and chocolate!).
Thirdly, I forgot yesterday to mention that the albergue continued the fine tradition of doorless showers which allowed a rather awkward conversation to take place between myself and a Spanish man. He was very friendly and seemed completely unperturbed by the fact that we were both wearing no clothing and I kept my back turned to him as often as I could. Hopefully he interprested my awkwardness as difficulty with the language (which wouldn´t be wrong, either).
Fourthly, I finally machine-washed all my socks and the clothes I wasn´t wearing yesterday, which was lovely but rather exorbitantly-priced (€4.40 just for the washer!) so I smell better and feel cleaner than I have in weeks. I only wish I´d remembered to do my sleeping bag as well because it´s been months since I washed it and it smells rather bad. Still, a clean towel and clothes are not to be undervalued!
After I wrote the entry yesterday I returned to the albergue for dinner and ate with two young German girls and a young Spanish couple in their final year of medschool. They all spoke English as their common language, so I was able to join in quite easily and soon enough we were all laughing about the various difficulties language presents with all the peoples gathered here. The Spaniards also taught the three of us how to play games using the strange deck of cards I´ve been seeing since the beginning of the trip. Rather than the normal spades, clubs, diamonds, and hearts, the suits are swords, literal wooden clubs, gold coins, and cups. Also, the deck for some reason doesn´t have 8s or 9s. But the games they taught us were basically the same as two games the three of us already knew from the "normal" poker deck. All in all, it was a very fun night.
Starting this morning was pretty rough because of the heel blisters, but the pain actually gave me a jolt of adrenaline that woke me up before the cafe-con-leche I take during my break for the day. It also lessened once my sock stuck to it, so after a few miles I didn´t really feel it. While I was sitting outside the little cafe my German friend stopped by (she stayed in a private albergue in Arzúa because she oculdn´t take another night of loud talking and snoring, so I didn´t see her much yesterday) and we walked for a mile or so together before I had to stop and get a tuna empanada because I was feeling lightheaded as a result (I think) of dehydration, caffeination, and hunger. After my second break I felt very good and made good time through the eucalyptus (introduced to Spain for the paper industry) groves to Arca do Pino, which sits a mere 12 miles from Santiago.
Although I will certainly take some time to adjust to living in one place again, I can´t say that I will be too sorry to have my own (long-enough) bed and the ability to sleep whenever I want without the rustling of plastic bags waking me up (today, for instance, I was in the middle of a lovely nap when the young Spanish woman in the bunk beside me had not the energy to do what sounded like an entire unpacking and repacking at the foot of her bed rather than beside it right next to my head). Santiago itself, as well, will be fun to rediscover for the last few days as I search out good restaurants (today I daydreamed about the falafel place I frequented last time) and souvenir shops and other places of interest. I am also looking forward to celebrating my Italian friend´s birthday in Finisterre on Sunday!
Beyond all that, however, I am excited to worship with some Spanish Anglican brothers and sisters next Sunday and meet the bishop. And then, of course, I will be home to be with family and friends. Anyway, I´ll update you again from Santiago! God bless!