Let me begin this post by saying that the computer I´m using has a keyboard whose keys do not all match up with their letters/symbols, so it takes some pretty nifty guesswork to figure out the correct keys for my desired punctuation.
As the title hints, I have, like the famed striped-shirted hiker who is so hard to find and leaves one of his items on each page, misplaced a very important possession. The bad news: I definitely left it in Terradilla de los Templarios (or it jumped out of my pack and started walking back east). The really bad news: the item happens to be one of my two pairs of underwear, which puts a lot of pressure on the pair I´m currently wearing. The good news: the day after tomorrow I´ll get to Léon, so I´m going to double-day this pair for tomorrow, wash it and go "commando" while it dries and while I walk to Léon, and then wear them while they´re fresh while I shop around Léon for a replacement pair. Huh boy.
Anyway, today I passed through Sahagún and took an alternate route (the Via Romana) that will rejoin the Camino Francés in Mansilla de las Mulas tomorrow. This route is far less crowded than the main way, and it also avoids the highway so I should have a quiet day tomorrow. On the other hand, between Calzada de los Hermanillos (my current residence) and Mansilla there is a stretch of about 20 or so kilometers with no towns or places to get water. So tomorrow I´ll stock up on calorie-rich food and fill my Camelback and settle into a rhythm for a long haul.
I want to say a word about last night and this morning. One price my German friend and I paid for our lack of privacy was that we were right next to the bathroom. The lights in the bathroom, as in several of the modern private albergues are motion sensor. That means that even when a person might open the door, go into the bathroom, close it, and then turn the light on, the light turns on anyway before the person can shut the (somewhat squeaky) door. This fact meant I was up at about 2:00 when pretty much everyone had to use the toilet, and again at 5:30 when someone turned on the hall lights. I figured it was useless to fight it, so I got up, but for the sake of the poor folks still trying to sleep I questioned the German man whether the hall lights were supposed to be on so early. He replied that it´s normal, which didn´t exactly answer my question, but it did make me resolve to not allow lights on before 6:30 in my albergue, possibly not at all until everyone is out of bed. One sign I will have that no albergue I have seen does is one saying "Respect your fellow pilgrims." That means no lights and be quiet when you see others sleeping, no matter what time of day. Sheesh.
The albergue in which I´m staying tonight is somewhat dingy but it´s donations only and unlike the others like that it has actual beds. The aforementioned German guy (who I don´t think was meaning to be rude because he doesn´t seem to like the early mornings either but he assumes it´s necessary to get a bed in the next town) is here along with my German roommate from Carríon, an Italian couple, and some Swedes I haven´t met yet. Not much going on in this place other than sun and a dry wind. At least one of the Swedes speaks English, though, so I might be able to get to know her a little bit tonight.
Tomorrow´s Ascension Day according to my BCP. Not sure how that´s celebrated in Anglican or Catholic traditions, but I guess we can all just read the appropriate scripture and think on Jesus´s return in the same manner. Anyway, there´s probably someone waiting to use this (free!) computer, so I´ll sign off for tonight. God bless!
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